'style' of stock 'crossbar' anchor is
in my opinion the best 'fail-safe'
unit, in that when the 'chips are down'
and all else fails, it
will 'set' quickly and hold you safely
as there is
always one of the flukes
'presented' to the seabed when the
anchor shank is heaved on, and due to
its unique 'fluke' design, it is a high
holding power anchor.
The ARK anchor
may be used either as a main anchor, or
as a standby safety unit.
For those of you that wish to make your
own ARK anchor out of either stainless
or mild steel then you can download a
free set of
DXF and PDF Design drawings
and this information is
at the end of the main Index.
anchor has a penetration
over any single fluke or 'double'
fluke swivel type anchors on harder
ground. In that due
of the 'crown' and the
of the 'overhead' fluke, there is a
upon the lower 'in ground' fluke tip,
more penetrating 'effort' on harder
ground. Too many anchors 'drag' when the
wind strengthens due to not having 'set'
Due to its
weight for size, design and imposed
with its crossbar gives 'ultimate'
and it will give
to the seabed, be
it in sand, sea grass, pebbles, or
are 'considerate' of boat
safety, then ask yourself:
'In what conditions do I need to
When it's all
or when it's rough and windy and the
- - -
Learn the 'ropes' and know your
anchoring system, - - - the 'how
& why' it
have spent many years on the sea, and
have found 'lack' in many of the anchors of the
day, due to them all at times
I have designed the 'basic' and new
Ark Crown anchor
that is a juxtaposition to the 'old' and
original anchor of olden year, being the
double 'tip' pod and 'crossbar' design.
of this lack is due to 'ignorance' on
the part of the user, and the other 50%
is the lack in design features or faulty
and false advertising of deployment
methods. This includes incorrect chain
length needed for
'heavy weather' anchoring.
'Noah' web site raised up in March
(2004) contains information on the new
design. The 'Ark'
has fresh design features, namely that
it has a large
area, rather than small 'pod' like tips,
and this fluke has been designed with a
'face' like a 'shovel' that will
being 'pulled' through sand or other
'concave' faces the direction of
pull, and has a 'set' angle of 'attack'
to the seabed that will maximise
The 'stock' anchor is suitable for
any size vessel, but is
'aimed' at the
10' to 66' length craft.
It is a proven fact that a concave
'face' that is facing into a direction
of 'flow,' be it water or air or any
other has a greater drag coefficient to
a convex one placed in a similar
situation. - - - Remember, the
difference between an anchor that is
dragging v/s one that remains
anchored in its position is
In tidal estuaries with change of direction
is the danger of the chain 'fouling' the
upwards fluke when the tide turns and
the vessel revolves around the anchor. This could result in the anchor becoming
disengaged. This may however be overcome
by using two anchors - refer to the
second 'image' on page 5 of Item 5:
Noah's notes on safe anchoring
recommendation to any person who is
'unsure' as to the capacity of their
present anchoring 'implement' to HOLD
under duress stress is to, - - -
"Try it" - - -
take it to the beach with a friend that
has a 4 wheel drive vehicle. This way
you can 'play' with it in wet sand and
place it in its 'worst' possible
position and see how it performs when
compared to others.
remember that it is ultimately your
'family' or friends and your 'craft' at
if you make a mistake. Do not rely
'solely' on any reports that are
made by manufacturers, or others that
know not the difference between a
'shovel' and 'pick' or a 'spade.'
Self-responsibility is the 'order' of
the day. Rely on your own
'identity' to identify fact from
Ultimately there is only one criteria of
importance and that is the 'holding'
power, being the capacity of the
anchor to anchor itself quickly
and remain 'anchored' under any
'load' in all 'ground' conditions. Be it
mud, or sand or 'grass' or coral. If any
anchor digs well in but does not hold,
then it may be too small for the load
imposed, seek a larger size.
you are a fisherman or a cruising
'helmsman,' always have a set of
'goggles & flippers' on board, so that
you can 'retrieve' an anchor 'snagged'
under a coral outcrop, or even to check
your propeller for 'snags' or damage or
barnacle infestation. Or depending on
your present 'type' of anchor, you may
wish to check how well it is
'set' by taking a 'swim' and having a
look. The ARK 'Crown' anchor is by
proven 'definition' and 'design.'
Ultimately you need a 'certain' fluke
size for holding in soft sand or mud,
but you also need a strong construction
for durability in heavy weather & coral
conditions. Smaller but stronger is
better than larger and weaker. Do not
use a 'lighter' weight anchor, or 'easy
stow' anchor for convenience sake.
The anchor system on your craft is
probably the 'least' thought about item,
but is the most important piece of
equipment. For when your vessel is
anchored and 'unattended,' the anchor is
the 'watch keeper' sentry protecting
your material asset, and when you are
'on board' and facing a life-threatening
situation, it becomes your 'lifeguard'
that protects your family.
By all 'means' use your present anchor,
but if you can 'afford' to have an
anchor as your main anchor or stowed on
deck as a 'trusty' standby safety anchor
for that 'stormy day,' then when you
find yourself in a 'life' threatening
situation, you will feel 'happier' and
be more secure.
opinion ARK anchors are - "Simply safe and strong
every small 'ship' is safe on the sea" -
- - If - - - you not only select the
correct anchor size for your vessel, but
you also use these informative pages to
educate yourself in the many different
aspects of anchoring your craft.
For you must not simply 'drop' your
anchor over the side and hope for the
best, you need to
learn the content of Items 2 & 3, so
that you are fully conversant with
also need to observe the different
'types' or nature of the sea bed, so
that you can have a 'better' knowledge
in that area, for there may be some
conditions where an anchor cannot 'set'
due to a smooth rocks, and there may be
another situation wherein due to very
soft mud, that a heavy anchor 'loaded'
by wave or tide may dig so deep that it
becomes difficult to retrieve. In both
cases, correct selection of anchor and
chain used is important.
need to become competent in that you
have prior knowledge as to the workings
of different anchors in different
conditions, this way you will find that
'whatever' anchor you are using, that
you will be able to get the 'best' out
of it. No anchor will be able to do its
intended task if you are
ignorant of all of its 'vagaries.'
correctly designed/manufactured CQR
plough anchor is the best for sandy
conditions. The Ark will be better when
the ground is rockier or weedy.
web site is not only educative, but we
extend the facility whereby you may
design drawings of any of the
anchors for free, so that you may have it
manufactured in a workshop in your
locality. This will save on transport
costs if you live overseas.
this, but you may wish to make it out of
mild steel that will be more economical
for you, whereas we only make them using
stainless steel that is expensive. We
supply you the DXF cutting files for the shank and
fluke that you can give to a workshop
that may use them in their laser cutting
supply 2 pdf drawings of the anchor fluke
and shank that you can print off to full
scale size in the event that your local
workshop does not have the cutting
equipment to use the DXF program for
laser cutting or, if you wish to
fabricate one with square or round bar.
We also give a manufacturing notes page
to aid you.
If you wish to make an 'Ark' anchor then go to
< Free download >
To view the
design, sizes and weights of anchors go
Back to main Index